Spring Pruning Guide: Trees and Shrubs in Lincoln, NE

Why Spring Pruning Matters for Lincoln Landscapes

Lincoln sits in USDA Hardiness Zone 5b, which means we typically see our last frost sometime between mid-April and early May. This frost date shapes our entire pruning calendar. Plants pruned before the last frost risk damage to new growth, while waiting too long means missing the window when plants can best heal from cuts.

Beyond timing, spring pruning promotes plant health in ways that matter throughout the year. Removing crossing branches prevents bark damage that invites disease. Thinning dense growth improves air circulation, reducing fungal problems common in Nebraska’s humid summers. And removing dead wood eliminates hiding spots for insects and disease organisms that would otherwise spread.

When to Prune Shrubs in Nebraska: A Seasonal Timeline

The question of when to prune shrubs in Nebraska depends entirely on when your specific plants bloom. This single factor determines whether you should prune in late winter, after flowering, or during summer. Get it wrong, and you might remove all the flower buds that were forming for months.

Late Winter to Early Spring (Late February through March)

This window works best for shrubs that bloom on new wood, meaning they flower on growth produced during the current season. In Lincoln, this includes butterfly bush, rose of Sharon, smooth hydrangea, panicle hydrangea, and summer-blooming spirea. These plants can be pruned hard in late winter because they’ll produce plenty of new flowering wood before bloom time.

Late winter is also the time to prune most deciduous trees while they’re still dormant. Without leaves, you can see the branch structure clearly and make better decisions about what to remove. Maples, oaks, and lindens all do well with late winter pruning, though you should wait until after the coldest weather has passed to avoid freeze damage to fresh cuts.

One important exception: avoid pruning oaks between April and July in Nebraska. This timing reduces the risk of oak wilt, a serious fungal disease that spreads when beetles carrying the fungus are attracted to fresh pruning wounds during warm months.

After Spring Bloom (Late April through Early June)

Spring-flowering shrubs need a different approach. Lilacs, forsythia, bridal wreath spirea, weigela, and bigleaf hydrangeas all bloom on old wood—meaning they set their flower buds the previous growing season. If you prune these plants in late winter, you’ll cut off all the buds that were ready to bloom.

Instead, prune these shrubs right after they finish flowering. In Lincoln, this typically means pruning forsythia in late April, lilacs in late May, and weigela in early June. The goal is to give plants the full growing season to develop new buds for next year while still shaping them when you want.

The same rule applies to spring-flowering trees like ornamental crabapples, redbuds, and magnolias. Prune them within a few weeks of bloom ending to avoid removing next year’s flower buds.

Spring Pruning Guide for Common Lincoln Trees

Lincoln yards feature a mix of shade trees, ornamental trees, and evergreens, each with specific pruning needs. Understanding these differences helps you maintain healthy, attractive trees without causing damage.

Shade Trees

Maples are everywhere in Lincoln, and they need careful timing. Red and silver maples are heavy sap producers, so pruning them in late winter causes significant sap flow from cuts. This doesn’t hurt the tree, but many homeowners find it messy and alarming. If you prefer to avoid the dripping sap, wait until after leaves fully emerge in late spring to prune maples.

Honeylocust trees are popular in Lincoln because they tolerate our clay soils and varying moisture levels. They can be pruned in late winter through early spring before leaf emergence. Focus on removing crossing branches, dead wood, and any suckers growing from the base or along the trunk.

Kentucky coffeetree has become a recommended replacement for ash trees lost to emerald ash borer. These trees have minimal pruning needs once established, but any necessary shaping should happen in late winter while dormant.

Ornamental Trees

Crabapples light up Lincoln neighborhoods every spring, and proper pruning keeps them looking their best. Since they bloom on old wood, prune immediately after flowering ends in late April or early May. Remove water sprouts (those vertical shoots growing straight up from branches), suckers from the base, and any branches that cross or rub against each other.

Eastern redbud is another spring-blooming favorite. Its flowers appear directly on the branches and even the trunk, so heavy pruning removes bloom potential. Limit pruning to removing dead wood and shaping after the flowers fade, typically in late April.

Japanese tree lilac blooms in early summer on current season growth, so it can be pruned in late winter if needed. However, this tree naturally maintains a nice shape without much intervention. Remove crossing branches and dead wood, but otherwise let it grow naturally.

Evergreens

Pines should be pruned in late spring when the new growth (called candles) is fully elongated but before the needles have spread out. In Lincoln, this window typically falls in late May to early June. Cut candles back by half to two-thirds to control size and encourage denser growth. Pines don’t regenerate well from old wood, so never cut back into areas without needles.

Spruce trees can be pruned in late winter through early summer. They’re more forgiving than pines and will often regrow from older wood, though slowly. Prune new growth by half in late spring to maintain shape, or make selective cuts to improve structure in late winter.

Junipers and arborvitae can be lightly pruned throughout the growing season, but avoid cutting into old wood that lacks green growth. Like pines, these plants won’t regenerate from bare wood. The best time for significant shaping is late spring just as new growth begins.

Spring Pruning Guide for Lincoln Shrubs

Shrubs form the backbone of most Lincoln landscapes, providing structure, privacy, and seasonal interest. Each type has specific pruning needs based on growth habit and bloom time.

Spring-Flowering Shrubs (Prune After Bloom)

Lilacs are Nebraska favorites, and proper pruning keeps them blooming reliably year after year. After the flowers fade in late May, remove spent flower clusters just above the first set of leaves. Every few years, remove one or two of the oldest stems at ground level to encourage new growth from the base. Avoid heavy shearing, which removes flower buds and creates a dense outer shell that shades out the interior.

Forsythia announces spring with its bright yellow flowers, often blooming before the last frost in Lincoln. Prune immediately after flowering, removing about one-third of the oldest stems at ground level each year. This renewal pruning keeps plants vigorous and prevents the leggy, sparse look that neglected forsythia develops.

Viburnum species vary in their pruning needs, but most spring-flowering types should be pruned after bloom. Remove crossing branches, thin dense growth, and shape as needed. Avoid heavy pruning, as viburnums naturally maintain attractive shapes.

Summer-Flowering Shrubs (Prune in Late Winter)

Butterfly bush dies back significantly in Lincoln winters and should be cut to 12-18 inches above ground in late March. New growth emerges from the base and will reach full size by summer, covered with flowers that attract pollinators. Don’t be alarmed if plants look dead in early spring—they’re just slow to break dormancy.

Rose of Sharon blooms on new growth and benefits from pruning in late winter or early spring. Cut back last year’s growth by one-third to one-half to encourage strong new flowering shoots. Remove any dead or crossing branches at the same time.

Panicle hydrangeas and smooth hydrangeas bloom on current season’s growth, making late winter the ideal pruning time. Cut smooth hydrangea stems to 6-12 inches from the ground in March. Panicle hydrangeas can be cut back by about one-third, removing last year’s faded flower heads and shaping as desired.

The Hydrangea Question

Hydrangeas cause more confusion than any other shrub when it comes to pruning timing. The key is knowing which type you have. Panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata) have cone-shaped flower clusters and bloom on new wood—prune in late winter. Smooth hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens), including the popular ‘Annabelle’ varieties, also bloom on new wood and can be pruned hard in late winter.

Bigleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla), the mophead and lacecap types with pink or blue flowers, are trickier in Lincoln. They bloom on old wood, so late winter pruning removes flower buds. The bigger challenge is that their flower buds often don’t survive Lincoln winters. Prune after flowering if they bloom, or just remove dead wood in spring if they don’t. Newer reblooming varieties like the Endless Summer series are more forgiving since they flower on both old and new wood.

Roses

Spring rose pruning in Lincoln should wait until forsythia blooms, usually mid-April. This timing ensures hard freezes are unlikely to damage new growth. Remove any dead canes first—they’ll be brown or gray rather than green. Then cut remaining canes to healthy white pith, making cuts at a 45-degree angle just above an outward-facing bud.

How much you cut depends on the rose type. Hybrid teas and grandifloras can be cut to 12-18 inches for strong new growth. Shrub roses and knockouts need less severe pruning—remove about one-third of the height and thin crowded canes. Climbing roses should only have dead wood removed in spring; shape them after the first flush of bloom.

Hedge Plants

Privet hedges are common in Lincoln and handle spring pruning well. Cut back hard in late March if you need to rejuvenate an overgrown hedge, or simply trim to shape as new growth emerges. Privet recovers quickly from hard pruning and will fill in by midsummer.

Boxwood should be pruned sparingly in late winter to remove any winter-damaged foliage, but avoid heavy shaping until late spring when new growth has hardened. Thin the interior of boxwood hedges to improve air circulation and reduce the likelihood of fungal problems.

Burning bush and ninebark can be pruned in late winter before new growth begins. Both tolerate hard pruning if needed to reduce size, though neither responds as quickly as privet.

Proper Pruning Techniques

Good pruning technique protects plant health and promotes faster healing. Poor cuts leave plants vulnerable to disease and can create permanent damage. A few basic principles apply regardless of what you’re pruning.

Sharp tools matter more than most people realize. Dull blades crush and tear plant tissue rather than cutting cleanly, creating larger wounds that take longer to heal. Hand pruners should cut paper cleanly; if they tear or fold it, they need sharpening. The same applies to loppers and pruning saws.

For shrubs, cut just above an outward-facing bud at a 45-degree angle. The slant helps water run off the cut rather than pooling, reducing disease risk. The direction of the bud matters because that’s where new growth will emerge—outward-facing buds create an open, vase-shaped plant rather than a crowded tangle of branches growing toward the center.

For trees, the branch collar is the key landmark. This slightly swollen area where a branch meets the trunk or a larger branch contains the tree’s natural defense system against decay. Cut just outside the branch collar—never flush with the trunk. A proper cut leaves a small, circular wound that the tree can seal over. A flush cut removes the collar and leaves a large oval wound that invites decay.

For larger branches, use the three-cut method to prevent bark tearing. Make the first cut on the underside of the branch, about a foot from the trunk, cutting about halfway through. Make the second cut from the top, a few inches farther from the trunk, cutting all the way through. The branch will fall away cleanly. Finally, make the third cut just outside the branch collar to remove the stub.

What Not to Prune in Spring

Some plants should stay off your spring pruning list entirely. Knowing what to leave alone is just as important as knowing what and when to prune.

Avoid pruning any plant that shows obvious stress. If a shrub or tree has significant winter damage, wait until you can clearly see which parts are dead and which are recovering. What looks dead in March might show signs of life by May. Premature pruning removes potentially viable tissue that the plant needs to recover.

As mentioned earlier, oaks should not be pruned from April through July due to oak wilt disease risk. If you have oak trees that need attention, prune them in late fall through March or wait until August.

Newly planted trees and shrubs generally shouldn’t be pruned the first year except to remove dead or damaged branches. The plants need all their energy to establish roots in their new location. Wait until the second or third year to begin shaping.

Finally, resist the urge to prune just because it’s spring. Not every plant needs annual pruning. If a tree or shrub has a naturally good shape, healthy growth, and no structural problems, you might only need to remove the occasional dead branch. Over-pruning creates more work for both you and the plant.

Common Spring Pruning Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced gardeners sometimes make pruning errors. Here are the mistakes we see most often in Lincoln landscapes and how to avoid them.

Topping trees remains common despite decades of education about its harm. Topping involves cutting large branches back to stubs, removing most of the tree’s leaf surface. This triggers a burst of weak, fast-growing sprouts that are poorly attached and prone to breaking. Topped trees also become more susceptible to disease and decay. If a tree is too large for its location, removal and replacement with an appropriate species is better than topping.

Shearing everything into balls and boxes is another frequent error. While some formal landscapes call for geometric shapes, most plants look best when allowed to maintain their natural form. Constant shearing also creates a dense outer shell that shades out interior growth, leading to hollow, weak plants. Reserve shearing for true hedges and formal specimens.

Removing too much at once puts plants under significant stress. The general rule is to remove no more than one-quarter to one-third of a plant’s growth in a single year. If an overgrown shrub needs major reduction, spread the work over two or three years rather than cutting everything back at once.

Using wound dressing or pruning paint is an outdated practice that can actually slow healing. Research shows that trees and shrubs seal wounds more effectively on their own. The exception is oaks pruned during the growing season (which you should avoid anyway)—fresh wounds should be painted immediately to prevent oak wilt transmission if emergency pruning is necessary.

Essential Pruning Tools

The right tools make pruning easier and produce better results. You don’t need an extensive collection—a few quality tools handle most home pruning tasks.

Bypass hand pruners are the workhorse of shrub pruning. The bypass design, where two blades pass each other like scissors, makes clean cuts without crushing stems. Use hand pruners on branches up to about three-quarters of an inch in diameter. Keep them sharp and clean for best results.

Loppers extend your reach and cutting capacity. Long handles provide the leverage needed for branches up to two inches thick. Like hand pruners, choose bypass loppers for cleaner cuts. Ratcheting loppers make cutting thick branches easier if grip strength is a concern.

A folding pruning saw handles branches too large for loppers. Modern pruning saws cut on the pull stroke and remove material surprisingly quickly. A blade length of 7-10 inches handles most homeowner needs.

Hedge shears are only necessary if you have formal hedges that require geometric shapes. For natural-form shrubs, hand pruners and loppers produce better results than shears.

Clean tools between plants, especially if you’ve been pruning anything with disease symptoms. A quick wipe with rubbing alcohol or a 10% bleach solution prevents spreading problems from plant to plant.

When to Call a Professional

Many pruning tasks are well within reach for Lincoln homeowners, but some situations call for professional help. Knowing when to call is important for both your safety and your plants’ health.

Any pruning that requires a ladder higher than six feet is best left to professionals. Falls from ladders cause thousands of injuries every year, and the risk increases when you’re also handling tools. Professional arborists have the training and equipment to work safely at height.

Branches near power lines require professional attention—and often the utility company handles them at no charge. Never attempt to prune near electrical lines yourself. Even branches that appear to be clear can spring into contact with lines when cut.

Large branch removal, especially on mature trees, involves risks that homeowners often underestimate. Heavy branches can twist and fall unpredictably, and chainsaw work requires significant training and protective equipment. A certified arborist can assess the situation, recommend appropriate treatment, and perform the work safely.

If you’re uncertain about whether a tree or shrub is dead, has a disease, or needs structural correction, a consultation with a professional can provide clarity. The cost of an assessment is usually modest and can prevent expensive mistakes or missed problems.

Planning Your Spring Pruning in Lincoln

Spring pruning success comes down to knowing your plants and respecting their natural growth cycles. Start by walking your property in late February or early March, identifying what you have and noting which plants need attention. Make a list, organizing plants by when they bloom so you can prioritize your work.

Begin with late-winter pruning of summer-blooming shrubs and most deciduous trees while they’re still dormant. As spring progresses and plants begin blooming, shift your attention to spring-flowering shrubs, pruning each one right after its flowers fade. By late May, most major pruning work should be complete for the season.

Remember that pruning is about working with plants, not against them. Each cut you make should serve a purpose—improving structure, removing problems, or encouraging healthy growth. When you prune thoughtfully and at the right time, your trees and shrubs will reward you with strong growth, abundant flowers, and lasting beauty.

Priority Lawn and Landscape provides professional pruning services throughout Lincoln, NE. Whether you need help with routine shrub maintenance, tree pruning, or aren’t sure what your landscape needs, our team is here to help. Contact us to schedule a consultation and keep your trees and shrubs looking their best.